Reporting Liam Mayclem
Filed underFoodie Chap
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Anne Walker and Kris Hoogerhyde are women who create hand crafted ice cream, special ice cream that leaves you feeling warm and fuzzy. Their original and unique Bi-Rite Creamery recipes evoke memories of childhood, they transport us all in one lick or scoop.
The business partners connected in the late 90′s when Anne Walker, who was then the Executive Pastry Chef at 42 Degrees hired Kris as the Assistant Pastry Chef. As the two worked together, Kris learned from Anne and a true bond formed between the women.
“Good ice cream is a celebration.”
- Kris Hoogerhyde and Anne Walker, Founders & Owners of Bi-Rite Creamery
When 42 Degrees closed in 2002, they decided to continue their collaboration by creating a line of baked goods for San Francisco’s Bi-Rite Market, owned by Anne’s husband, Sam Mogannam. For almost six years, the two used a rented kitchen space to bake and package cakes, pies and cookies and hand deliver them to the market.
When the storefront across from Bi-Rite became available, they moved in, following a strong hunch that the area needed an ice cream shop, and unveiling Bi-Rite Creamery in 2006. Since the opening, they have worked in close collaboration, united by a desire to make intensely flavorful ice cream. Everything is made in small batches from expertly sourced or house-made premium ingredients. At last count, they have scooped over half a million cones to a devoted clientele. Many of the pastries that Anne and Kris created for Bi-Rite Market now find their way into the Creamery’s myriad offerings. Favoring the ingredients of autumn, Kris loves to employ warming notes like ginger, cinnamon and molasses in her recipes, and her influence can be detected on the menu in flavors like Brown Sugar Ice Cream with a Ginger-Caramel Swirl, and Ricanelas.
A new Bi-Rite Market is set to open in Hayes Valley in San Francisco in September where a scoop counter will allow fans a new place to get their Bi-Rite Creamery fix.
Furthermore their book “Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones” has just been released. It’s stacked to the gills with great recipes and big, bright, colorful photos of the ice creams we all love and adore.
Enjoy the podcast with the talented pair Anne and Kris and please listen to the end when you will discover what happens when one gets a sugar HIGH and mistakes an ice cream cone for a microphone.
Four Tasty Questions with Chef Ashley James
1. Kris, good ice cream is…
2. What is the ice cream that changed your life?
Probably having it with my grandfather at birthdays at Farrells in Grand Rapids, Michigan.
3. It’s midnight and we go to your fridge, what will we discover?
Wine, sparkling water and probably some cheese.
4. What will be at your last supper?
I would probably re-create my wedding. We had it at Stern Grove, Bi-Rite catered it. It was full of family and friends and it was an amazing day.
Liam: Tasty Answers, thank you!
Orange Cardamom Ice Cream Recipe
Recipe from Bi-Rite Creamery’s Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones, Authors: Anne Walker, Kris Hoogerhyde, Dabney Gough
Published April 2012 by Ten Speed Press
Makes about 1 quart
We love to make this in the winter, when citrus is really doing its thing. This ice cream is unique in that it uses only the zest from the cara cara orange and none of the juice. The result is a delicate, floral citrus flavor that is a nice complement to the aromatic cardamom.
Ice cream machine and Microplane or other rasp grater
Infusing and chilling time:
30 minutes, plus 2 hours or overnight
2 tablespoons green cardamom pods
13/4 cups heavy cream
3/4 cup 1% or 2% milk
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
5 large egg yolks
1 large cara cara or other variety of orange
INFUSE THE MILK/CREAM
1. Put the cardamom in a small skillet and put the pan over medium heat. Toast the pods, stirring frequently, until aromatic, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, let cool for a minute, then use a sharp knife to coarsely chop the pods.
Cardamom pods have a tendency to fly all over the place when you chop them. To minimize this, use a sharp knife and slow, deliberate motions as you chop. Or you can crush the pods by rocking the bottom of a small sauté pan back and forth over them on a cutting board.
2. In a heavy nonreactive saucepan, stir together the cardamom, cream, milk, half of the sugar (1⁄4 cup), and the salt.
3. Put the pan over medium-high heat. When the mixture just begins to bubble around the edges, remove from the heat and cover the pan. Let steep for about 30 minutes, or until the cream mixture has a distinct cardamom flavor. (Taste it to monitor the progress; the mixture will become bitter if oversteeped.)
MAKE THE BASE
4. In a medium heatproof bowl, whisk the yolks just to break them up, then whisk in the remaining sugar (1⁄4 cup). Set aside.
5. Uncover the cream mixture and put the pan over medium-high heat. When the mixture approaches a bare simmer, reduce the heat to medium.
6. Carefully scoop out about 1⁄2 cup of the hot cream mixture and, whisking the eggs constantly, add the cream to the bowl with the egg yolks. Repeat, adding another 1⁄2 cup of the hot cream to the bowl with the yolks. Using a heatproof rubber spatula, stir the cream in the saucepan as you slowly pour the egg-and-cream mixture from the bowl into the pan.
7. Cook the mixture carefully over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it is thickened, coats the back of a spatula, and holds a clear path when you run your finger across the spatula, 1 to 2 minutes longer.
8. Strain the base through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean container. Zest the orange over the warm base and stir to combine. Set the container into an ice-water bath, wash your spatula, and use it to stir the base occasionally until it is cool. Remove the container from the ice-water bath, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate the base for at least2 hours or overnight.
FREEZE THE ICE CREAM
9. Freeze in your ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. While the ice cream is churning, put the container you’ll use to store the ice cream into the freezer. Enjoy right away or, for a firmer ice cream, transfer to the chilled container and freeze for at least 4 hours.
MAKE IT YOUR OWN
– Try another variety of orange, such as navel or Valencia. Just make sure it has nice taut skin so that is has a full-flavored zest.
– Replace the cardamom with a cinnamon stick, a couple of star anise, or a few Szechuan peppercorns.
– Fold chopped toasted pistachios (see page 114 in Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones) into the finished ice cream.
(Copyright 2012 by CBS San Francisco. All Rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed. Wire services may have contributed to this report.)