Foodie Chap With Chef Christopher Kostow of The Restaurant at Meadowood

Chef Christopher Kostow & Liam Mayclem (credit: Foodie Chap/Liam Mayclem)

KCBS radio "Foodie Chap" and KPIX 5 television "Eye On The Bay" host Liam Mayclem introduces us to the culinary stars behind the food and wine loved by so many in the Bay Area.

About Christopher Kostow:

A Michelin-starred chef before the age of 30, Christopher Kostow takes a thoughtful approach to food that belies his age. Drawing upon his own American upbringing, but more importantly the bounty of the surrounding valley, Kostow creates a transcendent experience for diners every night at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

Kostow, a Chicago native, trained in kitchens far and wide:from a Paris bistro to the Michelin-starred Le Jardin des Sens in Montpellier. Upon returning to the States, Kostowworked as sous chef under Daniel Humm in San Francisco. He soon became top toque at Chez TJ in Mountain View garnering the restaurant many accolades including two Michelin stars and a coveted spot on Food & Wine'slist of Top Ten Dishes of the Year in 2007.

Upon arriving at Meadowood in February of 2008, Christopher maintained two Michelin Stars, was nominated for Best Chef: Pacific by the James Beard Foundation and named as one of Food & Wine Magazine's Best New Chefs 2009. In February 2010, Christopher garnered a rare four stars in the San Francisco Chronicle and was soon awarded the highest ranking of three Michelin Stars from the esteemed 2011 Guide. Christopher is the second American-born chef and third youngest chef ever to receive three Michelin stars.

Christopher and The Restaurant at Meadowood team have since retained the three Stars from Michelin in the 2012,2013 and 2014 editions of the San Francisco Bay Area & Wine Country Restaurants Guide; as well as the four stars in San Francisco Chronicle. In May of 2013, Christopher was awarded Best Chef: West by the James Beard Foundation.

Chef Christopher Kostow Book "A New Napa Cuisine" (credit: Foodie Chap/Liam Mayclem)

We met at Meadowood for our Foodie Chap chat. Much of our talk centers around his debut book "A NEW NAPA CUISINE". It is a love letter to NAPA, a place he has called home for 6 years.

Kostow shares his food philosophy through wonderful words & stunning photography. There are recipes a plenty in the book but the essays inbetween from this brilliant yet humble chef make this culinary tome especially interesting.

Chef also talks about his upcoming appearance at the National Kidney Foundation Luncheon in San Francisco on Saturday October 25th. He is among an impressive list of celebrated authors.

As I said to Chef as we wrapped "good things happen to good people," but I really meant to say "great things happen to great people". This is his time: 3 Michelin stars, a spectacular debut book. He is also a Father to two year old Daisy & husband to lovely Martina. I almost forgot to give a shoutout to Charlie, the family dog, who even has a deserved dedicated chapter in the book.

More info on Chef Kostow and on the Kidney Foundation Authors Luncheon below.

Enjoy!

KCBS Foodie Chap Podcast:

"When I tell chef friends of mine that a grist mill stands just a stone's throw from my home and kitchen, they are incredulous. The miller, in the traditional miller's garb of the nineteenth cen-tury, grinds, among other things, a fantastic rye flour. We feature it in this porridge, served with smashed kohlrabi that has been glazed in its own cooking juices and with pickled mustard seeds." - Chef Christopher Kostow

SERVES 4

SMOKED KOHLRABI GLAZE
4 2/3 cups peeled and diced kohlrabi, with leaves reserved
about 3 quarts water
kuzu root starch
kosher salt
sherry vinegar

BRAISED KOHLRABI
5.3 ounces peeled kohlrabi, with leaves reserved
kosher salt

PICKLED MUSTARD SEEDS
61/3 cup yellow mustard seeds
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1/3 cup water
kosher salt

BRAISED KOHLRABI LEAVES
reserved kohlrabi leaves
1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup water
kosher salt

PICKLED KOHLRABI
1 3/4 cups kohlrabi, in brunoise
1 cup white wine vinegar
2/3 cup water
kosher salt

FOR THE SMOKED KOHLRABI GLAZE:

Cold smoke (see page 287) the kohlrabi pieces for 1 hour. Just before they are ready, pour the water into a saucepan and begin to heat slowly. Transfer the kohlrabi pieces to the saucepan, cover, and bring the water to a simmer. Turn down the heat to 140°F (60°C) and hold for 1 1/2 hours. Strain the liquid through a very fine cloth filter into a bowl, discarding the kohlrabi, and let cool slightly. Weigh the liq-uid and calculate 5 percent of the weight. Weigh the calculated amount in kuzu root starch and whisk it into the liquid. Place over high heat and bring to a boil while stirring constantly. Boil for 3 minutes, until the glaze evenly coats the back of a spoon. Strain through a chinois into a clean saucepan, then season with salt and vinegar, cover, and keep in a warm place.

FOR THE BRAISED KOHLRABI:

Cut the kohlrabi into sections about 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) thick. Put them into a bowl and season on all sides with kosher salt. Transfer to vacuum bags, keeping like pieces together, and seal on high. Put the kohlrabi into a steam oven set at 200°F (95°C) for 25 minutes for larger pieces and 15 to 20 minutes for smaller end pieces. The pieces are ready when they collapse easily from moderate pressure. Just before the kohlrabi is ready, prepare an ice bath. Remove the bags from the steam oven and immerse them in the ice bath for 2 hours, then remove the kohlrabi from the bags. Break into 1/2-inch (12-millimeter) jagged shapes and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

FOR THE PICKLED MUSTARD SEEDS:

Combine the mustard seeds, vinegar, and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat to a simmer and cook for about 1 hour, until the seeds have absorbed all of the liq-uid. Season to taste with kosher salt and transfer to a metal container. Let cool in the refrigerator.

FOR THE BRAISED KOHLRABI LEAVES:

Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Rinse the reserved kohlrabi leaves in cold water and run through a salad spinner to remove the excess liquid. Heat the extra virgin oil in a large rondeau just until it begins to smoke. Add the leaves and water, cover immediately, and cook for 15 seconds. Uncover and stir the leaves to wilt them evenly. Transfer the leaves to the prepared sheet pan and let cool completely in the refrigerator. Very finely mince the leaves, season with kosher salt, and reserve in the refrigerator.

FOR THE PICKLED KOHLRABI:

Put the kohlrabi in a heatproof container. Combine the vinegar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and pour over the kohlrabi. Hold at about 190°F (88°C) for 10 minutes. Season with kosher salt and store in the refrigerator.

PUMPERNICKEL RYE PORRIDGE
1/3 cup pumpernickel rye flour
1 1/4 cups water
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
kosher salt
mustard oil
wild mustard flowers
tiny red Russian kale

FOR THE PUMPERNICKEL RYE PORRIDGE:

Combine the rye flour and water in a shallow saucepan over medium heat and bring to a simmer while whisking constantly. As the mixture begins to thicken, turn down the heat to low and continue to whisk the porridge. When the porridge has thickened but is still pourable (10 to 12 minutes), incorporate the butter and season with kosher salt, then remove from the heat. As it sits it will continue to thicken; add a little water as needed to maintain the correct consistency.

TO SERVE:

Pour a small amount of the porridge into the bottom of each of 4 flat-bottomed bowls. Arrange about 5 pieces of braised kohlrabi in each bowl. In a small saucepan, heat the glaze and add a small amount of the braised kohlrabi leaves, dispersing them evenly throughout the glaze. Repeat with the mustard seeds, dispersing them until the glaze is evenly studded. Spoon the glaze into the bowls to cover the kohlrabi; leave the porridge exposed. Place a few piles of the pickled kohlrabi in each bowl, and garnish each serving with a few dots of mustard oil and some mustard flowers and kale leaves.

Enjoy!