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Food & Drink

Narsai David Book Review: The A.O.C. Cookbook By Suzanne Goin

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BERKELEY (KCBS) – Los Angeles chef Suzanne Goin’s second cookbook, The A.O.C. Cookbook uses a fascinating, seasonal approach to explore the ingredients in each of the recipes.

After the first two sections on cheese and charcuterie, Goin divides each subsequent topic, salads, fish, meat, vegetables and dessert, into spring, summer, fall and winter.

Goin is well-known for the restaurants, Lucques, a.oc., and Tavern.

Here’s a few of the recipes I’m looking forward to trying out in my own kitchen.

I can’t wait to puree some fresh sweet peas for the sweet pea pancake with Dungeness crab and a red onion crème fraiche. Topping it with Dungeness really sounds like it’s going to work. And don’t be afraid to try it out even with some frozen C & W petite peas. They are tiny enough to be sweet and delicious year round.

In the braised duck with madeira, kale stuffing and dates, I like the idea of using the sweetness of those dates to counter that pungent heaviness of the kale.

Some others that stand out are pork confi with caramelized apples and cabbage in red wine, or the balsamic-glazed Brussels sprouts and with pancetta. There’s a lot to try in this delightful book.

Narsai David is the KCBS Food and Wine Editor. He has been a successful restaurateur, chef, TV host, and columnist in the Bay Area spanning four decades. You can hear him Saturdays at 10:53 a.m., 12:53 p.m. and 4:53 p.m., and at 2:53 a.m. Sunday on KCBS All News 740AM and 106.9FM.

(Copyright 2013 by CBS San Francisco. All Rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.)

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